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Literature Let's GO · Walking booklet
Shadows and Their Veins
Yang Chih-chang and Yeh Shih-tao: Surreal and Sensory Landscapes of Old Tainan
國立臺灣文學館
Contents
This walk draws on two works — Yeh Shih-tao's “My Second Aunt, the Yidan and I” and Yang Chih-chang's “Skin of Roses” — and on the heightened sensory signals in them, which tint real places with the mental imagery of surrealism. The route is like a vein running through the city; the figure of a young woman moves slowly along it like white blood.
- 1National Museum of Taiwan Literature臺南市中西區湯德章大道1號
- 2Tainan Bao'en Hall臺南市中西區永華里忠義路二段38巷4號
- 3Chunghwa Telecom Building (site of the Tainan Post Office)臺南市中西區忠義路與民生路交叉口
- 4Kaiji Tianhou Temple and Dachong Street臺南市北區自強街12號
- +Tainan Fire Museum臺南市中西區中正路2之1號
- +Chen Yi-he Residence臺南市中西區赤崁東路56號
Getting there
The route covers a walking area of about 3 km; no transport is needed. Start at the National Museum of Taiwan Literature and follow the stops in the order 1→2→3→4→5, finishing at the Dachong Street stele. The extra stops — the Chen Yi-he Residence and Snail Lane — can be added depending on your way back.
See the website for the map, or open the route in Google Maps. www.google.com/maps/dir/?api=1&origin=22.991800%2C120.204370&destination=22.999570%2C120.202700&travelmode=walking&waypoints=22.992500%2C120.203740%7C22.993340%2C120.203110
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Stop 1 of 4
National Museum of Taiwan Literature
臺南市中西區湯德章大道1號
建築本身為1916年(大正5年)落成的台南州廳,由建築師森山松之助設計,與現已消逝的台南郵便局出自同一位建築師之手——走讀路線在此形成一個隱密的環形:消失的建築與保存的建築都是森山松之助的作品,一個被拆除,一個被保留,各自承載著不同的歷史命運。館內同時藏有楊熾昌家屬捐贈的《風車》第三期孤本,以及大量葉石濤文物。兩隻蝴蝶最後都停在這裡。
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Stop 2 of 4
Tainan Bao'en Hall
臺南市中西區永華里忠義路二段38巷4號
1861年(清咸豐十一年),齋教先天道門人黃昌成來到臺灣府右營埔(今衛生福利部臺南醫院院址)傳教,並建立了一座小祠,逐漸集資改建為瓦房。1896年(明治二十九年),由於日本政府要築建臺南醫院,徵收此座寺廟,報恩堂搬遷到末廣町一丁目貳番地現址,遷建時,使用部分為舊料移用的建材、石與木雕。民國七十四年11月27日公告為三級古蹟,現為直轄市定古蹟,齋堂為三合院式,正堂拜亭的左廂是主持的起居室,後殿則是齋友的起居室。
舊時婦女有婚姻不順,可能會到齋堂帶髮修行。
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Stop 3 of 4
Chunghwa Telecom Building (site of the Tainan Post Office)
臺南市中西區忠義路與民生路交叉口
1909年(明治42年)落成的台南郵便局,原為建築師森山松之助設計的典雅歐式建築,黃白相間面磚、高聳衛塔,是楊熾昌青春記憶最重要的座標——他在此地附近工作,初戀今井民子在郵局任接線生,而今井民子後來以死為這段愛情畫下句點。
1972年(民國61年)已拆除改建為現在的電信大樓,但楊熾昌此後詩作反覆出現的蝴蝶與靜脈意象,都與其初戀的美和死亡有關,可在此停留片刻,感受「建築仍在、記憶已去」的時間錯位。
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Stop 4 of 4
Kaiji Tianhou Temple and Dachong Street
臺南市北區自強街12號
開基天后宮廟內有台灣最古老的石雕龍柱,以及全台最古老的「崇禎媽」,是府城時間密度最高的場所之一。廟前這條街舊稱「大銃街」,因附近有清代砲臺而得名。
楊熾昌幼年在此成長,詩作〈青白色鐘樓〉裡寫下1933年某個清晨向南方街道走去的日常畫面,有充滿超現實的光線感。大銃街是一個廣泛的地理空間,因為承載府城發展過程中的街廓記憶與地方社會變遷,在本路線中,兩位創作者都因為曾經在此地生活,將不同移民聚落的生活樣貌,構築成不同的角色,創作都市紋理的多重層次。
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Excerpts and commentary
“My Second Aunt, the Yidan and I”
Excerpt
Another evening of endless rain. I had finally finished teaching, … and was surprised to find that Yang Yin-mei — quiet, slender and graceful — had not left, and was standing there with an umbrella. She seemed to be waiting for someone, yet apart from me there was nobody else around. The rain was getting heavier, and I had no umbrella; I stood hesitating, not knowing what to do.
“Teacher, shall I walk you home?” Yin-mei murmured.
“But it isn’t on your way,” I said, “and besides…”
In those feudal times… young men and women did not dare to be alone together — let alone walk under the same umbrella.
“It doesn’t matter — if Teacher doesn’t find me dirty…” Yin-mei said, a little agitated. Her meaning was plain: she thought I shrank from her because she was a yidan, afraid of being looked down on. That stung me — and in any case I had always been a lawless sort.
“All right!” I stepped bravely under her umbrella. I caught a faint scent of jasmine, utterly unlike the smells of my mother, my second aunt and Miss Tsui-lien. My mother smelled of clean soap; my second aunt and Miss Tsui-lien smelled of the sandalwood of incense sticks; what Yin-mei gave off was the scent of youth, bewitching to the senses.
“Where are you from?” I asked. Just then our shoulders brushed, and my blood surged as if I had touched a live wire.
“Can’t you tell? I’m a Hakka from the north. I was sold to the prefectural city when I was thirteen.”
“Oh! You’re Hakka.” Only then did I understand why she had learned Japanese so quickly and spoke it so precisely, and why her Taiwanese was not very fluent.
“Do you miss your family?” I asked. She said nothing, but suddenly reached out with her free hand and held mine tightly, without a word… Tears poured down Yin-mei’s lovely face and mingled with the rain until her whole face was wet. I was full of regret: my cruel, careless question had pierced straight to where it hurt, and made her so sad.
Commentary
A teacher and pupil sharing one classroom can also be two people under one umbrella — with the greatest distance between them.
The “I” of the story seems to be the one who summons his courage and defies convention, but he is really an inexperienced youth. Precisely because he has seen so little of the world, he cannot yet truly grasp the other person’s background and suffering. And the boy’s second aunt, and Miss Tsui-lien who keeps her company — what were their inner lives really like? Standing outside the gate of the vegetarian hall, we can see the structure of the building and feel the atmosphere of history, but we do not know the origins and way of life of the vegetarian-hall faith, nor the many reasons behind each woman’s choice to live this way. Beyond the vegetarian halls, the role and background of the yidan also carry the constraints and particularities of their time.
Yet it is exactly this kept distance, this atmosphere and setting, that lets a half-comprehending youth lead us to sense the mysterious distance of women. The boy always leans toward women in expectation; he turns his not-understanding into a kind of resonance, and the curiosity that draws him forward into an effort of sympathy. Yeh Shih-tao’s women, too, reach a kind of sublimation — through this understanding and tolerance, and through the strength with which, in the end, they carry their real hardships themselves.
“Skin of Roses”
Excerpt
The funeral procession passed quickly; light glared off the side of the white wooden coffin and grazed my cheek.
A girl who had made a promise of love with me died before it could be kept. It was all very brief.
How much distance lies between the time I held Aoko, feverish at thirty-seven and a half degrees, and today, as I watch her funeral procession go by?
— The bad girl who defied her father is dead…
In the hearse that carried the maiden I sensed the scent of withered flowers; listening to the distant music of rose-colored skin and an upright spirit, I left the town.
White heat rose shimmering over the petals of the flame trees as I strolled through the old city. From within my stalled thoughts I heard the laughter of birds and smelled the flowers of dusk. Old-fashioned love is a skeleton that hardens with time. I whistled. And just then, once again, I heard the mournful funeral march!
— The song is sentimental…
I set summer on fire.
— Life is like spring!
In the wind of these ruins, Aoko’s words mingled tears with joy.
— Life is only the tiredness you feel in hibernation.
Those words of mine gave my heartless self the conditions for solitude. I looked at the distant scenery. In the misty sky, smoke drifted with the wind. Three white egrets rose and sank on the waves like afterimages.
Feeling slightly dizzy, I stood up.
Commentary
In this story Yang Chih-chang shows how he uses the synesthesia of matter: from the rose color of a girl’s skin, his words gradually carry us into one space of memory after another.
In the 1924 Manifesto of Surrealism, Breton stressed the importance of “not shrinking from conception.” He emphasized the process of conceiving and experimenting (the dream): when we accept without reservation a series of strange episodes, new connections and new forms of description can be born.
Even if the reality before us is not like this, even if there are all kinds of limits on what we can experience — some landscapes, for instance, have vanished, and some views before our eyes are not beautiful in the mainstream sense. Or again: what rises and falls with the geological uplift of modernity is the ruin of history. Can a faded modernity still be beautiful?
Every literary landscape is a sensory ruin that was once exposed to light. If so, is the procession escorting the dead not exactly those rays of light walking side by side before our eyes? And so, as we stroll along the route, we seem to be wrapped in a kind of hypnosis, half dreaming, half awake.
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Starting museum
國立臺灣文學館
臺南市中西區湯德章大道1號
開館日:週二至週日 09:00–18:00。休館日:週一(逢國定假日照常開館,連續假日結束後一日休館)、農曆除夕及大年初一、政府公告之天然災害停止上班日、選舉日及本館另行公告之必要休館日。
Literature Let's GO · National Museum of Taiwan Literature · Commonplace
nmtl.commonplace.tw/en/routes/tainan-surreal/
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